You might get only 17W and two years out of the new tubes on the DRRI, but you might enjoy it a lot more.
But beyond certain point, the improvement diminished, so you just get to that sweet spot and call it a day. As you increase the current, you get better, fuller sound.
BIAS AMP 2 NOT WORKING FULL
My experience with experiment on my amp, you get not as full sound following Fender's spec. You loose power when you adjust to get more idle current and your tube will not last as long. According to spec, it is absolutely safe in that region. You want best sound, adjust the bias within the safe parameter like what I suggested (-25 Who tell you it's cheap to get quality, you pay the price of burning out tubes faster to get better sound. I found the improvement tapper off anything less than -40V or so. In fact, in my own design, I have a 5 way bias switch to go from -50V to -30V in steps. I set my 6L6 at about -36V instead of -51V like Fender do. But I feel there is a sweet spot in between. That's the reason people run class A in the high end amplifier. Yes, your tube will burn out faster if you run more idle current, but there is an improvement in sound. I personally like to run it between the normal class AB and class A. I am not going to get into Vox Class A stuff as it's not the OP's problem. Then you are running very close to class B instead. More problem is if the bias setting of the old tubes is too negative and the new tubes might run into cut off with the old bias. But yes, there is always a very very very slight possibility. In this particular amp, you "can" run into danger of too low the bias voltage and cause too much current to flow and the tube to get hot.īUT, if the old tube is running fine and you change the tubes only, there is ALMOST NO CHANCE that you can all of the sudden run so much current that the new tubes get red.
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